Types of spotlights: recessed, surface-mounted, track, magnetic track and under-cabinet

Short answer: Spotlights fall into five groups by how they are mounted: recessed downlights set into a suspended ceiling, surface-mounted spots fixed straight onto a concrete ceiling, track spotlights that slide and swivel on a track, magnetic track spots that clip onto a low-voltage track with magnets, and under-cabinet lights fitted beneath kitchen units. Your ceiling decides first (is there a void above it?), then the job of the light: a wide beam (60° or more) for general lighting, a narrow beam (24–36°) for accents. At home choose 2700–3000 K, a colour rendering index of CRI 90 and at least IP44 in bathrooms and other damp areas.

1. Recessed downlights

They sit in a hole cut into a plasterboard or suspended ceiling, held by spring clips; the body stays inside the ceiling and only a slim trim shows. This is the most common type of spotlight in homes.

• Pros: Clean look, light flush with the ceiling, low-glare models available.
• Watch out for: The cut-out size varies by product: 55–65 mm for small and accent spots, 75–95 mm for the COB downlights most used in homes, 105–150 mm and above for wide downlights. The ceiling void needs at least 1–2 cm more than the body height.
• Variants: Fixed (pointing straight down), adjustable (tilt and rotate, for walls and pictures), trimless (plastered in so only the light shows), round or square.

For cut-out sizes and spacing see our guide to downlight sizes and spacing.

2. Surface-mounted spotlights

If there is no ceiling void, or you do not want to open the ceiling, the body is screwed to the ceiling and stays visible as a cylinder or box. They are common in flats with concrete ceilings, in renovations, lofts, industrial-style interiors and shops. Because you see them, the finish (black, white) and form become part of the décor. The connection uses the existing ceiling outlet; several spots may need a surface cable channel or new outlets.

3. Track spotlights

They clip onto a track, either surface-mounted or recessed, via an adapter, slide along it and tilt and turn. You can add as many as you like and move them later. They are ideal for shop windows, gallery walls, kitchen islands, pictures and bookcases. The track type (single-circuit or three-circuit) must match the spotlight adapter. More in our guide on how to choose track spotlights.

4. Magnetic track spots

A magnetic track is a slim, low-voltage profile; spots and linear fittings hold on by magnet and can be clipped on and moved without tools. It looks slimmer and more modern than classic track, and narrow spots, wide linear fittings and pendants can share the same track. It can be recessed or surface-mounted. In living rooms, kitchens and offices it is the most flexible way to build layered lighting without a central ceiling light. We compare the two in magnetic track vs track spotlights, and you can draw your own track and try it in a 3D room in our magnetic track planner.

5. Under-cabinet and in-cabinet lights

Slim linear fittings or small spots mounted under wall cabinets and inside shelves or display cases. They remove the shadow of your head and the cabinet on the worktop. Linear fittings light the worktop evenly and usually work better than a row of small spots. For kitchens use 3000–4000 K and CRI 90; see our kitchen lighting guide.

Six values to check when choosing a spotlight

1. Beam angle: 10–15° very narrow (display, single object), 24–36° accent (picture, island), 60° general light, 90° and above soft general light for low ceilings.
2. Lumens: lumens, not watts, tell you the brightness. For general light at home plan roughly 100–150 lumens per square metre of floor.
3. Colour temperature: 2700 K very warm, 3000 K warm (balanced for living and bedrooms), 4000 K neutral (worktops, work areas), 5000 K and above looks cold and harsh at home. Do not mix tones in one room.
4. Colour rendering (CRI): 80 is standard; 90 and above makes wood, fabric, food and skin look natural.
5. Glare (UGR) and optics: a deeply recessed LED, a honeycomb louvre or an anti-glare reflector keeps seating and work areas comfortable.
6. Ingress protection (IP): IP20 is enough in dry rooms; near baths and showers at least IP44, under eaves and outdoors higher. For bathroom zones see bathroom lighting zones; local wiring rules apply in your country.

If you want dimming, the spot, its driver and the dimmer must be compatible; check the control type (e.g. phase-cut, DALI) on the product page.

Which spotlight for which room?

• Living room: wide-beam downlights or magnetic track for general light, narrow adjustable spots for pictures and shelves. Avoid narrow spots directly above the sofa.
• Kitchen: general light on the ceiling, linear under-cabinet light on the worktop, track spots or pendants above the island.
• Bedroom: a few dimmable spots at 2700–3000 K, placed over wardrobes and edges rather than right above the bed.
• Bathroom: IP44 or higher downlights, placed in front of the mirror so your face is not in shadow.
• Hallway: a single row of wide-beam spots 1.2–1.5 m apart, or wall lights.
• Shop and display: track or magnetic track, narrow beam, CRI 90 or higher.

Spotlight or something else?

Spots give light from single points; too many of them can make a ceiling look like a colander. In large rooms, linear fittings, cove lighting or LED panels give a calmer ceiling. To work out how many spots and lumens you need, use our lighting calculation guide.

• → Downlights and spotlights
• → Track spotlights
• → Magnetic track lighting
• → Linear lighting
• → Downlight sizes and spacing
• → Lumens, watts and colour temperature
• → Living room lighting without a chandelier